Original Magazine x SAMANTHA SIU
“All designers are inventors.”
This was one of the very first things Samantha Siu told me when we met. During her interview with Original Magazine, Siu shared her belief that the fashion world is filled with innovators and scientists. However, after speaking with her about her latest body of work, I’m certain that few are as intentional in their inventiveness as the New York-based jewellery designer.
Her campaign — aptly named Bespoke — is the child of conscious fashion and engineering. It weaves together Samantha’s vision of creating sustainable, inclusive, and transformative accessories.
Her jewellery is fully customizable thanks to her ingenious clasp mechanism, which allows each link to unclasp and reconfigure according to the wearer’s desires, enabling a bracelet to transform into a necklace. It is a creative response to the modern world’s single use pandemic. Fresh from unveiling these designs at LFW, Siu admitted to OM that this will not be the last time she aims to invent an entirely new mechanism for her jewellery:
“I’m experimenting more with different mechanisms now, like designing my own clasps and spring locks. We’ve finally perfected the clasps, but the bracelets have seen less wear since they’re so new. We’re still evolving. In the future, I’m considering rings that return to the story of 3D sculptural rings, but I want them to be size-inclusive — one size fits all. That requires extensive research because no one has done it before.”
It seems as if all of Samantha’s work is an ode to her unique point of view as both a designer and founder of non-profit organisation, The Pheonix International Foundation. From her early memories of shadowing her aunt’s jewellery manufacturing business to her studies in psychology, missionary work, and the decision to travel the world with her first love, Samantha’s passion for maximalist jewellery is a confluence of the many facets of her life.
“I feel like, without a story, there is no product in anything. How are you going to connect without a message? I could create characters and ideas from my imagination, but if I’ve experienced them firsthand, it becomes a much more personal offering for anyone interested in listening. It’s much more transparent. I knew that — at that moment — I didn’t have a collection when I created the necklace. It was my first real idea, and I knew I just had to wait and be patient.”
One of Samantha’s best friend’s aunt was an especially influential mentor who encouraged her to pursue formal training by returning to university. This advice, combined with the freedom she experienced during her travels with her first love, motivated Samantha to take a bold leap into designing unique, maximalist jewellery. These pieces were unlike anything she had previously crafted in her family’s business.
“I travelled the world with him [her first love]. I didn’t tell anyone. I just knew that this was my story: I should be creating a necklace for every place I visit. I have this scrapbook filled with my tickets, photos, and trinkets I’ve collected, which became my inspiration and mood board.
That’s how I slowly created my first collection. In that scrapbook, I had around fifteen to twenty necklaces. I sifted through them to find my story. All the jewellery I created with my family when I was young was very dainty, and so I wanted to create something obviously the opposite of that. Could I make something very small and amazing? Sure, but I wanted to make something big to display the wax work and metal and really see the details of every curve so people could really admire the art of it.”
Siu’s life experiences are embedded in her jewelled clasps; her memories dangle alongside her intricate pendants. This creative approach has enabled Samantha to connect with her customers through her growing collection of statement pieces. Her personal stories bind the client to the creator and are at the core of everything Samantha designs. She even mentioned that the stories behind her jewellery give her a unique insight into her customers:
“My inspiration started when I first studied psychology, focusing on art therapy and child development. That’s why I gravitated towards creating something self-reflective. I realized that [making jewellery] was a form of art therapy. When people choose a piece, it’s a reflection of themselves, another form of art therapy. They choose things they can’t easily express. I think I learn a lot about my customers from their taste in my jewellery; each piece reflects part of their personality, and by wearing it, they reveal something special about their inner self.”
When Samantha Siu set out to create, she did so with the intention of developing conscious fashion choices that are equal parts beautiful and responsible. Despite facing numerous obstacles on her journey to originality, this inventive designer is determined to change the industry, envisioning a future where retailers value the message behind the jewellery as much as the pieces themselves.
Interview by: Anya Duncan
Images Supplied by: Black PR