HARRI
Chapter Two
AW23
Words By: Becci Zarah
London and New Delhi-based designer HARRI showcased his critically acclaimed inflatable collection, Chapter Two, during London fashion week AW23.
Held at the British Fashion Council's Newgen space for emerging creatives, HARRI presented his designs to a performance of contemporary dances. The @supatex inflated garments came to life in the dimly lit room with syncopated drum beats. The model, wearing the white Oyster Leys Trousers, sported blood-red hair and a tie to match. The ballooned structure of Harri's work has quickly become a part of his signified house style. In collaboration with creative KK Obi, the unique artistry presented campiness with hyper-performance. The cabaret references, bold colours and futuristic designs are aimed for the wearer to….
Harri's work is made for the theatrical and encourages liberation through this. His work's widened, inflated legs subvert traditional human structures in clothing, redefining beauty within his artistry. The striped swirl-panelled inflatable trousers indicate a circus tent, yet reimagined with Harri's flamboyant sculptured shape.
A recent supporter of Harri's work is musician Sam Smith, who sported a custom Harri look at the Brits earlier this month. After years of conforming to masculine stereotypes within the fashion and music industry, the singer wore Harri while exploring his hyper-femininity recently. The look gave Smith a powerful and dramatic entrance at the award show, acting as armour for the artist.
The progressive structures and curved shapes in Harri's collection are supported visually by the latex sheeting material. Traditionally synonymous with a fetishised material since its suggestiveness of naked skin, however, Harri's exploration away from a tight-fitted silhouette transcends the stereotypical ideas around latex in the fashion industry.
The collection's ability to be self-inflated with plastic plugs are nostalgic for the 90s. Yet Harri isn't the only designer incorporating inflatables into fashion; Jeremy Scott for Moschino on the SS23 runway presented his 'Inflation Chic', poking at the rise of economic inflation. Are air expansive clothes here to stay or float away?
