Original Magazine x Amy Spalding

Fashion’s Queer
Evolution

Queer dress originated as a voiceless language — a riddle to be deciphered; one which ensured that the LGBTQIA+ community could persevere through illegality and cultural othering in the 20th century. What began with androgyny in women’s clothing (in particular, the popularity of women’s trousers) lingered in many forms, from the ‘lesbian chic’ aesthetics of the 1910s to the handkerchief code developed by the gay leather community in the 1970s.

Then came a postmodern revolution — the simultaneous rooting of subcultures through which heteronormativity could be rejected in unique ways. Klub Kid, Punk, New Romantic and Queercore groups celebrated Queer identity proudly, and in the wake of the Stonewall riots, there was a visual shift.

Queer dress was loud. It was experimental. It was never going to be muted again.

But with the rise of the internet (which continues to blur the lines between strict subcultures), is there still such thing as distinctly Queer fashion? Queer icon Amy Spalding — founder of SLTStudios’ ‘dykonic’ rings —  doesn’t think so:

‘I think the line has been totally blurred between Queer fashion and just fashion in general. We’ve got the straights rocking our look, which you know what, take it as flattery.’

Celebrities like Chappell Roan, media like Love Lies Bleeding, and of course, the BBC’s first all-female dating show I Kissed a Girl (IKAG) have cemented 2024 as the year of women-loving-women (wlw). Amy’s TV introduction was an explosive one. Despite finding her love for fashion later in life, Amy made sure to use her debut on IKAG to cement herself in the minds of the public. While she may not believe in exclusively Queer dress, Amy’s suitcases were filled with clothes that represented the best of her personal evolution. A style which has since become synonymous with Queerness.

‘One of the things I said when the producers asked me about my type was fashion. With that in mind, I knew that was what other people would be looking at. I had this massive wish list of clothes I just dreamed of having, and if there was ever a time to whip out the credit card… this was it. Though, most of my stuff I get from charity shops anyway (like my jorts and the infamous boots).’

‘I never even thought that “fashion diva” would be my title from the show. I thought there was going to be the most fashion-y people in there and I was just a baby in that sense, but it’s so flattering! Having people dress up as me for Halloween is absolutely insane!’

With the increase in Queer visibility, wlw relationships and their distinctive fashion sense have been dragged into the inevitable trend cycle. Though in this era of muddled Queer signalling, Amy Spalding has still managed to create accessories unique to the LGBTQIA+ community. Most notably, her infamous ‘DYKE’ ring — a ring tethered irrevocably to the sentiment that Queer love will not be going anywhere. However, as her rings continue to grow in popularity, Amy is mindful that SLTStudios should keep its distinct voice.

‘It’s key to me that this brand I’m building doesn’t just do everything. I think it’s about including but also defining.

Dyke, I made for my little sister. It felt fitting and I had the idea to do it with my ex-girlfriend (classic) when we were on holiday together as exes. I want to include more rings for, say, bisexuals who don’t feel like they can wear the Dyke ring. That’s a difficult conversation because that word is so precious to those who have been oppressed by it. I’d love to do one that’s a bit more palatable like “Queer” for people who don’t identify as Dyke.’

While Amy’s degree in Biomedicine may seem like the antithesis of her current occupation, it was this willingness to experiment that helped cultivate both her business and her taste in fashion. Growing up, her school never pushed the arts. Her house was uncreative. For Amy, creativity is a rabbit hole that she is still tumbling into.

‘I’ve been making jewellery since the beginning of lockdown…It started off with just transforming cutlery into jewellery, like spoon rings. I thought that would be really easy.

I thought: “I’m a DIY DYKE, I can make this myself!”

I fell in love with it; this was around the same time that my love for fashion came out. I am juggling a lot of things at the moment, but I want my rings to be my main thing. Trends and stuff, it’s all so superficial.

I’d hate to put all my self-worth in that basket. Especially having ADHD, I’m so susceptible to emotion and mood swings and I think it would just be dangerous to have my mental wellbeing on something that’s very finite. It’s hard not to though. It’s that rejection complex that comes majorly with ADHD.’

With the rise of a new era in Queer visibility, Amy Spalding’s boundary-pushing rings (and her delightfully exuberant personality) are here to stay.

While there may be no such thing as distinctly Queer dress as we’ve seen it throughout history, the 21st century’s muddled mix of personal expression presents a new style opportunity. An individual can customise themselves like never before, and SLTStudios will be there if they want a ring to stand for their truest self. But what can we expect from Amy in 2025? Her answer was this:

‘I’m doing fashion shoots which I never even dreamed of doing before. I never thought I was going to model. We [Amy and Gareth Valentino] are actually going to be doing a shoot themed on a lavender marriage… a little bit of inside tea for a ring that’s coming out. Gareth and I literally would have a lavender marriage if we could … We have such similar personalities. It’s a shame we are both gay because we’d make such a hot couple!’

Team Credits
Talent: @amy_spalding // @intertalentgroup
Rings: @sltstudios_
Photographer: @luciecarter
MUA: @louisaa_makeup
Nail Technician: @nozinails_
Studio: @ctrlcreativestudios
Stylist: @edenloveseeclark_stylist
Styling Assistant: @tonygennarelli
Creative Assistant: @georgiaanthiportfoliomedia
Art Director: @_anya124_
Producers: @emilygrace_morgan & @michael_d_morgan // @_original_magazine